We were told that there was a share jeep that would pass through Tashading to Yuksom at 11am or 1pm. With luggage in tow we waited patiently on the side of the road waiting for the jeep. The 11am one was stuffed, no way would we be able to catch that one. So we continued to wait on the side of the road for several hours, each time a jeep whizzing through or packed with people, our confidence that we would catch one decreased by the hour. No one had mentioned in conjunction with jeep advice that it was market day, so extra busy. The one good thing about sitting on the side of the village road indefinitely was the fantastic people watching opportunities. For the past week, the village had seemed pretty sleepy, and now there were all sorts of people coming out of the wood work! One old farmer lady dressed in traditional Nepali clothing with a massive gold nose ring hiked passed us with a huge basket hanging from her head. She didn't have any shoes, and to be honest it looked like she had never owned a pair in her life! Those feet must have taken a battering, I had thought to my myself, recalling the hectic climb we had endured to the river only day ago.
It seemed we were a pretty good market attraction for the locals too. The westerners sat at the bottom of the market with big bags were turning out to be great amusement to the kids who spent the next few hours walking past us, up and down the hill, each time shouting NAMASTE! a little louder than the last time. We had to chuckle.
The rain began to start about 2pm and a jeep finally passed us at about 3pm with just enough room for us and our bags. By this time the rains were really coming down. This jeep ride felt a little more hair raising than the last. Despite the lack of views, we did get to see the Phamrong Falls en route, which really were breathtaking.
Arriving in Yuksom was like arriving in a massive cloud. Wet and very foggy. We fell into the nearest hostel, escaping from the outdoors. This turned out to be a good deal as we had a whole dorm to ourselves for Rs60 (90p) per night. Cold and damp, but we were getting used to this...
Yuksom is the place where the major treks to North Sikkim start and the main trailhead for the Khangchendzonga trek. Being off season, the small town felt a bit more like a ghost town, especially with the impending cloud that was not looking like it was going to go anywhere. Only one cafe was our access to food and tea. It was OK, but portions weren't particularly generous or that appetising. When it is cold and rainy, we have realised that a good cuppa is pretty key to our sanity.
Nevertheless, Yuksom had a few local walks with some interesting things to see. So we spent one full day taking the sights in. A fair few Gompas lined the town, 2 of which we walked to. The most fascinating thing for me was Norbugang Park which is home to the coronation throne of the first Sikkim Chogyal. It was a beautiful park, really nice a fresh with the fine rain. There was an actual footprint fused in stone infront of the throne which is believed to be of one of the crowning lamas. Dubious? No. It was spookily realistic.
The walk to the park took us out of the little town, where immediately ALL of the stray dogs started to follow us (or shall I say, me). They aren't aggressive or too gammy, but all the same, I really would have preferred if they hadn't followed us (collecting their friends on the way). I have begun to wonder if I smell of dog or something. Al insisted that it is because they can smell my hormones. GREAT. Anyone who knows me well enough will know that I am not comfortable around dogs at the best of times! One slight deterrent I did discovered on this walk was my umbrella. If I opened it in the dogs face it stopped them from following me for all of about 3 seconds!
The walk took us past Kathok Lake, a Holy lake with loads of prayer flags. It was murky, but peaceful all the same. I say peaceful, it was until we left the lake edge, where we proceeded to scream like little girls. LEACHES. Little buggers on our shoes. It was our first experience of them. Although we had been anticipating them, when one is 'marching' very quickly towards skin and you can't get it off of you, it is a tad disconcerting. Meanwhile, dogs and locals are stood there watching us with amusement as we struggle to rid ourselves of these blood sucking pests!
When we had reached the Norbugang park and enjoyed seeing the coronation throne, massive Buddhist prayer wheel and Monastery; we devised a cunning plan.... With the dogs still in tow, we thought it would be amusing if we locked them in the grounds of the Monastery. So we quickly darted out the gates, shutting them in on our way out. The dogs stood there with their heads through the bars watching us longingly. I felt a little bad, but not for long. We walked back down the hill in hysterical laughter...only to see a monk on his way up. CRAP. He would release the hounds! We kept up our speed, but before long we had our furry friends trotting along side us once more.
With the weather persisting, and only much longer treks to do in Yuksom, we decided to relocate to Pelling the following day.
The walk to the park took us out of the little town, where immediately ALL of the stray dogs started to follow us (or shall I say, me). They aren't aggressive or too gammy, but all the same, I really would have preferred if they hadn't followed us (collecting their friends on the way). I have begun to wonder if I smell of dog or something. Al insisted that it is because they can smell my hormones. GREAT. Anyone who knows me well enough will know that I am not comfortable around dogs at the best of times! One slight deterrent I did discovered on this walk was my umbrella. If I opened it in the dogs face it stopped them from following me for all of about 3 seconds!
The walk took us past Kathok Lake, a Holy lake with loads of prayer flags. It was murky, but peaceful all the same. I say peaceful, it was until we left the lake edge, where we proceeded to scream like little girls. LEACHES. Little buggers on our shoes. It was our first experience of them. Although we had been anticipating them, when one is 'marching' very quickly towards skin and you can't get it off of you, it is a tad disconcerting. Meanwhile, dogs and locals are stood there watching us with amusement as we struggle to rid ourselves of these blood sucking pests!
When we had reached the Norbugang park and enjoyed seeing the coronation throne, massive Buddhist prayer wheel and Monastery; we devised a cunning plan.... With the dogs still in tow, we thought it would be amusing if we locked them in the grounds of the Monastery. So we quickly darted out the gates, shutting them in on our way out. The dogs stood there with their heads through the bars watching us longingly. I felt a little bad, but not for long. We walked back down the hill in hysterical laughter...only to see a monk on his way up. CRAP. He would release the hounds! We kept up our speed, but before long we had our furry friends trotting along side us once more.
With the weather persisting, and only much longer treks to do in Yuksom, we decided to relocate to Pelling the following day.