We felt sad rolling out of Varanasi as again this meant another section of our journey and another place to say goodbye to. Things are definitely closing in our India chapter. The rain began when we left the station and signaled that we were in the trough area of the monsoon. Bihar was now a lot more green than before and the wind from the outside a lot cooler. Laura's stomach was still shaky from what we believed was caused by our cooking course and had pains throughout the journey, making it not the best we had experienced. We shared the cabin with two couples, who shared their food with us, which was hard as it wasn't great. Dried nuts and chilli's deep fried, we ended up chucking a fair bit subtly out of the window to avoid offense as they insisted on us taking them.
The morning came with my reasonable sleep and Laura's disturbed with pain and rolled into Bhopal on time! Amazing considering we expected the trip back to be at risk of flooding disruption, but as it happened the floods were in the north west of India.
After brushing up on our personal hygiene at the station we look to see whether we should stay in Bhopal, the place looked good from the train as we arrived, which is not the usual experience you get arriving in an Indian city for the first time by train, so it was tempting. Yet there was a train due in 20 minuted to Indore, so we decided to go for it to get more time in Omkareshwar.
Our first general class ticket was met with the usual strategy of people throwing things into the carriage to 'save their seat'. As the train stopped in front of me the shoves from behind began, like the front row of a concert where you cannot go anywhere because of people getting off the train. I stood firm and held on with large rucksack to stop people barging on shouting to "let people off the train first" (very London, British). People shoved harder but I resisted, despite people hurling abuse at me. When one guy squeezed under my arm I ensured he was trapped between me, the train and the people getting off... point made. There were no seats and no one wanted to give us space... so we made some! The journey was tight to say the least and not great for the smaller of backsides as Laura found out. We lurched into Indore in the pouring rain 5 hours later and was greeted by the usual stares that signify a less developed town socially.
After the rickshaw trying to charge Rs30 to go round the corner we inform them "jee nahee! ap ko paisa, angrezee paise nee sasta. Ja o?" Essentially meaning I am not paying English prices, you are not giving me the cheapest rate so go away. The area around the station is the usual grime we have experienced in the past, but head to the recommended hotel. After scouting out a few it becomes clear that Indore is far more sectarian and has separate hotels for westerners and Indians, which limits our options. The recommended place annoyed us, it was too expensive and the manager was being unresponsive in his help, so we left. A couple of guys helped us out as I was buying some cigarettes, who talked to a rickshaw driver about taking us around the the hotels for free until we found one, as it seemed that there were many that were completely full. We took his offer and after a few more being full reached a mid range place that had 24 hour check out (really handy if you can get it, as arriving at 5pm means you get a full day there also). It was more expensive than the last and more than we'd like, but Laura at this point is flagging and in pain so I decide to go for it, despite needing to pay for the water cooling system at Rs495 per night (pounds 7.5). Laura crashes out and doesn't look good, stomach gurgling and feeling weak. After a heated and unfriendly debate with reception on the standard of the room I get Laura in there with people cleaning around her. Room service took too long so I went to grab her some sugary drinks needed.
That night Laura spends sleeping and so I go out to grab supplies, wash and relax myself. The next day Laura feels no better, so Omakreshwar is off until she is better. I find a local restaurant which was really cheap and everything is cooked by the road side, in open kitchens (a good sign). It is busy for a reason and I have a great Bindi fry with butter tandoor roti's for Rs45 (60p). Laura is in bed all day again and so I while away my time wandering around taking in the immediately local area, which is pretty crap. Bhopal seems a better suggestion to have stayed at now. That night I grab a few beers from over the road and watch the crackly non-English TV playing nurse.
The next few days I spread out my search of the city and actually find that further out it is growing into a more modern city. Again it is the center that is a dump, with most shops dealing in bike parts, repairs and selling seat covers. It is auto industry city. I also find out that there are loads of colleges here, which is why it was so busy at the hotels, due to it being admission time for the new students. I also visit the posh coffee shop (coffee is a rarity in India) and it costs a lot more. Rs30 for an espresso and I had to direct them to make an Americano. The coffee is bitter and makes me realise how good we have it. Either way their veg focaccia for Rs 25 (35p) is great!
Apart from a trek around the city to find an Internet connection and having people tell me that Rs15 is the Indian price and Rs 50 the foreigner price, I find Indore the most racist place in India I have been yet. The only thing that makes up for it is the corner eatery that grew used to me after eating there for 4 days and the decent room.
After 4 days in Indore our time in Omkareshwar was being eaten away. Laura made slow progress and eventually made it to see the coffee shop I had been to, in order to fuel up for the journey. She put on a brave face to carry heavy bags across town and to deal with the impending bus journey.
We made our way to the station and with a massive surprise we find a counter with someone who is actually helpful! He spoke English despite our efforts at "Engdi" (English-Hindi) and gave us the bus number. A minute later he chased after us and corrected himself and directed us to the bus himself... these things become so amazing when the rest of the time people are so devoid of care or useful information. The bus driver allocated us a seat and despite the engine plus exhaust blasting on my feet we were away with minimal of fuss and effort, which was a relief for Laura.
Madhya Pradesh is a lesser explored state which has a vast production of agriculture. The people are more "village", which generally means they are more starey and have a more close minded village attitude, as many Indian people have pointed out to us. They tend to do what they want, have poor awareness of others and live simple lives. This summed up the people on the bus, but winding through the hills through lush forests we are excited at finally making our way to Omkareswar
We made our way to the station and with a massive surprise we find a counter with someone who is actually helpful! He spoke English despite our efforts at "Engdi" (English-Hindi) and gave us the bus number. A minute later he chased after us and corrected himself and directed us to the bus himself... these things become so amazing when the rest of the time people are so devoid of care or useful information. The bus driver allocated us a seat and despite the engine plus exhaust blasting on my feet we were away with minimal of fuss and effort, which was a relief for Laura.
Madhya Pradesh is a lesser explored state which has a vast production of agriculture. The people are more "village", which generally means they are more starey and have a more close minded village attitude, as many Indian people have pointed out to us. They tend to do what they want, have poor awareness of others and live simple lives. This summed up the people on the bus, but winding through the hills through lush forests we are excited at finally making our way to Omkareswar